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Penumbra

V9-10, Boulder,  Avg: 3.4 from 5 votes
FA: Jake List or Brian Bittner
Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Smugglers' Notch > Smugglers' Notc… > Boulders Behind… > Bat Cave/ Penumbra Area
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Description

This tall problem starts on a vertical skinny hold and moves up into sidepull crimps. There are 3 options for sidepulls and use these to get to a slot in a crack. From the slot climb straight up to a heady top out. I think its okay to use the roots at the top to finish since there's no exposed rock on top. Be careful because they are loose.

WARNING: be mindful of your fingers in the slot. If you take a fall you have to consciously pull them out as you're falling or else they will get stuck.

Location

The leftmost climb on the tall boulder to the left of the Bat cave climb. Has a stump/log poking out over the top out.

Protection

LOTS of pads. You need to cover up the hole. 5 pads minimum.

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penumbraaaa
[Hide Photo] penumbraaaa

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

eddysamson
  V9-10
[Hide Comment] Unfortunately an important hold broke on this yesterday. The right hand crimp/sidepull that gets you up to the hard crack move has broken a bit. Its still usable but its now smaller and harder to lock off on. I'd say this brings this up to a 9 now. Going to change the grade. Aug 27, 2015
eddysamson
  V9-10
[Hide Comment] Finally got footage of this! Check it out here last climb in the vid starting at 3:11

youtu.be/Sz7QUF2XE6g?t=3m11s Jul 5, 2016