PRINT: Rock Climb Final Twilight, The New River Gorge Region

Final Twilight

5.12b, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),

Avg: 1.8 from 4 votes
FA: Bill Bauer, Dan Brayack 2011
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Cotton Hill > Cotton Top

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

A nice little bouldery route.

Start with some techy movement to get established at the first bolt, then make a big deadpoint/dyno to an obvious jug at the second bolt (keep an attentive belay here to avoid body-slamming your climber).

One more large move brings you to some nice jugs from which you clip bolt three and ponder the final cruxy moves. Several viable sequences exist here - commit to one and aim for the slopey ledge below the shuts.

For such a short route, it packs in a good amount of powerful climbing. Worth doing if you're hankering for some roped bouldering.

Protection

3 bolts to rusty shuts

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joe Virtanen
Charlotte, NC

You may not expect much when looking at this climb and comparing it to some of its neighbors, but this short pitch is full of fun.

There are two distinct cruxes - one near the bottom and one at the top. The excitement doesn't end until you are clipping the chains after executing a long move off a bad pocket with the last bolt below your feet. Aug 24, 2015