Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: S.Maciejowski, T. Peckham 9/1/2014 assisted also by T. Okeefe
Page Views: 544 total · 11/month
Shared By: Seth Maciejowski on Sep 22, 2014
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

P1 - 120' 5.10c 5.7 PG13 - Look for a bolt about 20' up juggy, dirty face climbing. Follow three bolts up to a 5.8 slab section and a shallow ledge with a juggy flake. Clip a bolt and pull a roof onto hollow holds. Beware of a loose quartz hold at the roof. Move up and left on hollow flakes to a bolt and continue trending up and left on 5.6/7 terrain to the big roof. Make an exposed clip (slightly runout) over the roof and pull the roof to a stance.
Climb past 3 more bolts to a spacious belay ledge. Belay off gear and a prominent birch tree. Move right 20' to rap from the anchor on "Heavy Weather" or head up P2.
P2 - 5.6 80' Climb up the crack directly off the belay to a bushy corner. Continue up dirty cracks to nice big ledge. Continue up a nice licheny face above for 30' or so with decent small gear to a top out on big holds. Rappel to the anchor on top of Heavy Weather from a big white pine (no fixed slings at this time).

Location

Approach via the main wall at double upper of
climb cadet's corner and move on to the ledge at the base of the main wall. The start is right of Ladybug and NightCrawlers. Don't be perturbed by the climbing low on the route as the crux is fun and well protected and there is plenty of fun face climbing on most of P1.

Protection

Gear to hands. Double up on the small sub finger sized pieces for P2

Photos

Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
  5.10b
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
  5.10b
Probably best to traverse right and rappel from Heavy Weather. First pitch is sport although gear needed at the belay.

The second pitch is currently humorously dirty and unless we missed something is a pretty stout PG-13. Seth, are you sure you climbed this or did you just look up it and guess it'd be around 5.6? hahaha You certainly practiced leave no trace ethics up there! Sep 22, 2015
Seth Maciejowski
  5.10c
Seth Maciejowski  
  5.10c
Kris,
Yup. Welcome to unclimbed Upper Upper. Actually pretty good climbing on that second pitch if someone cared to put the time in with a wire brush (broom)... Oct 1, 2015