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Routes in East Car Body Canyon

Ambition is Critical S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Basalt Somersault T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boys-r-Blue S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Citizens Against Spiders T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cleaning Lady, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirty Luck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eyeless in Gaza T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gargling Vinegar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hershey Squirt S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Holiday in Cambodia S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Industrial Age, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Lunch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Macabre Roof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neon Leprechaun S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pansy - Direct, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pansy, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raisin the Titanic T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Hudson S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Scream, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spasm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sperm Whale S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spice of Life, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Temporary Insanity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Terminal Hypocrisy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tin Man S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Two Studs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whaleback Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whimper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whitehead Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wimp Roof S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Kennedy/Fransen '00
Page Views: 131 total · 3/month
Shared By: R.Walters on Sep 22, 2014
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Seasonal Raptor Closures. Details

Description

Climb low-5th class, broken rock to a ledge and the first bolt at 15-20'. Clipping this with a long draw will reduce drag. From here, follow the obvious line up increasingly better rock to the 5th and last bolt just above the small roof. Clip this and move straight up, pulling on pockets and edges of varying degrees of positivity to the chains.

The route is a bit contrived as it is possible to use the left arete after the last bolt to bring the route down to .10b as listed in the book. This
involves moving into what I thought to be dangerous fall potential above a broken column top.

If the starting bit of rock and the upper contrivances are disregarded, this thing is pretty good. It protects well (when climbed directly) and the boulder problem at the crux is fun and on great rock.

Location

First bolted line left of Macabre Roof. Look for the first bolt above the ledge about 15' from the deck.

Protection

5 bolts, chains

Photos

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R.Walters  
 
Beware of occasional bird closures.
facebook.com/boise.climbers… Jul 21, 2015