Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FA Dan Mcdevitt, 2014
Page Views: 1,052 total · 18/month
Shared By: Alexey Zelditch on Sep 22, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

The route climbs better than it looks.
location - 10 feet left from "Mac Daddy 11a" thin crack system in the corner goes up to set of new bolts.

Location

10 feet left from "Mac Daddy 11a"

Protection

double from green alien to #1 camalot

Photos

Vlad S  
I wanted to clean this crack last year. Was quite disappointed when I saw the anchor on it this Sunday. I'm glad I didn't do it. It must have been a ton of work to garden out this climb and only for a measly 5.9. It still needs some pruning as well. I wouldn't want to fall on those trees that are still sticking out of it... Sep 23, 2014
Ryan K.  
FA Dan Mcdevitt, 2014, 10.a. I placed both #2 camalots I had. Good warm up for area. Feb 15, 2015
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
It's an enjoyable climb, worth the trouble of cleaning it out imo. And most importantly it's in a high-traffic area so it will actually stay clean. May 7, 2015
Ed Henicle
Santa Rosa, CA
Ed Henicle   Santa Rosa, CA
Great shady cragging area. This route warms you up with 5.8 moves and has a few well protected 5.9 moves - good lead for the 5.8 leader moving into 5.9

Thanks for the gardening! Sep 29, 2015
Michael Dom
  5.9
Michael Dom  
  5.9
Good beginning climb. My friend did her first trad lead on this route and smoked it. Dec 13, 2015
Nkane 1
Berkeley, CA
 
Nkane 1   Berkeley, CA
 
The new Sloan guide calls this "Kung Fu Panda" and gives it 10a. I provide this only as information and not as an endorsement of that name or grade.

But it is a nice route: flaky stemming down low with mostly good rock followed by a nice finger and hand crack to the chains. 9+ or 10a seems reasonable by newer standards. Oct 24, 2016
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
  5.10a
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
  5.10a
This route would be a good warm-up or tune-up for placing gear. It is fun with many options for holds and movement. Very nice courtesy clips at the top. Jun 19, 2017
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
  5.9
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
  5.9
"Kung Fu Panda" is not a name of the route given by FFA party. Unfortunately, Dan does not remember the original name. How this name show up in Sloan book? - Simple - Sloan never hesitates to make up the name instead of making a question mark. Same happen with ridiculous and never given name " Dan Mcdevitt the Maestro" - the name of the route 11a on the right with chimney start Mar 18, 2019
Vlad S  
Alexey, the same thing happened for the routes on "Public Sanitation". I added a few to this site and made up some names ("unknown this...", or "unknown that..."). Sloan copied that word per word. LOL! I've asked Dan about those routes previously. He confirmed that they are his, but didn't suggest any names... I guess they will be nameless unless these silly filler names stick. Mar 19, 2019