Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, 125 ft|
|Page Views:||93 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||B-Mkll Mackall on Sep 20, 2014|
DescriptionAn excellent mental challenge for the 5.10b climber.... or the 5.11a climber! This long route tackles the obvious and defining feature of the crag, the incredible and striking overhanging prow visible from the highway to the left of Scorched Earth.
An unfortunately chossy first third, but still excellent climbing, with one of the most horridly exposed and terrifying cruxes that you will find on limestone in the Bozeman area.
An unexpectedly tenuous start for 2 bolts deposits you on gray slab into a short section with very cool crystal lined pockets. This will bring you up to a small corner. From here, utilize broken cracks to traverse up and left for 2 or 3 bolts until an obvious juggy lieback flake can be reached... There are two options here. Either continue up the flake until it becomes too loose for comfort and traverse left (foot traverse option) or make a big reach left to a jug below the 2nd traverse bolt (hand traverse option). From here either option will require a decent span out to the best thing you can find around the corner on the arete.
Crux time! Pull onto the arete on wholly marginal feet with less-than-ideal sidepulls over a truly terrifying 80 feet of exposure. Try to find some way, any way, to fight the barndoor and slap or creep your way to better holds up and left on the arete. Upon study this crux isn't terribly physical but my goodness is it mental. After these first insecure and utterly terrifying moves, the difficulty eases and the climbing deposits you in a good crack and face up to the anchors.
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