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Routes in McCullough Gulch

Canary Couloir, The T M2-3 Steep Snow
Claim Jumper T WI3 M3
Gold Miner's Daughter T WI3 M2-3 Steep Snow
Noxious Fumes T M2-3 Steep Snow R
Quandary Couloir T Steep Snow
Tommy Knocker T Steep Snow
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 1500 ft, Grade III
FA: FA?, First ski descent- Taylor B.
Page Views: 558 total · 12/month
Shared By: Taylor-B. on Sep 18, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Please respect the mining claims in this area. Details


This route takes the striking couloir-weakness up the north face of Quandary. It is prudent to have a good freeze and an early start in order to minimize the primary objective hazard of rockfall from the east-facing side of the couloir that gets early AM sun.

Depending on snow and ice conditions, there are 3-4 cruxes that merit a rope at M2-3+, very condition dependent. There "looks" to be a 3rd class escape gully halfway up on the climber's left that will take you to the east ridge.

Descend: the East ridge is the topout, or ski it with 2-3 rappels in a good snow year.


Take CO Hwy 9 up Hoosier Pass to County Rd 850. County Rd 850 takes you along the south side of Quandary Peak up to Blue Lakes. Take a right off of County Rd 850 onto County Rd 851 [which] takes you around the north side of Quandary up McCullough Gulch. In the winter, County Rd 851 is closed due to snow and adds on many miles but not that much vertical to the approach. Follow the same directions as for Claim Jumper and Noxious Fumes, at the beaver ponds hike west up towards the large rock glacier terminal moraine. From the upper parking lot to the base is approximately 1.5-2 hours. You can descend down the standard east ridge.


Small rack with a few thin pins and a few ice screws.



More About The Canary Couloir