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Death Dealer

5.12c, Trad, 105 ft (32 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 7 votes
FA: J. Unema, B. McCord
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sycamore Canyon > Volunteer Canyo… > S Side > 2. E End Wall

Description

Death Dealer is a classic and varied basalt pitch. It begins with a powerful layback, moves into technical climbing on unique holds around a thin seam, and finishes on a one-of-a-kind boulder problem on crisp basalt edges.

Protection

The first free ascent was done on all gear, however several of the key pieces protecting the difficult climbing are small, hard to place, and not really very good. The FA party decided to add 3 bolts to protect the climb.
Bring quickdraws for the bolts, a single set of cams from C4 #.4 to #3, a full set of nuts from small to big (offsets useful), one each 000 and 00 C3 and a double set of cams from 0 c3 to #.3 C4.

Location

Death Dealer follows the thin seam about 20 feet left of Rapture. It begins beneath the Rapture pillar in a steep corner. Belay on the ground. At 60 feet or so, the line splits, with Death Dealer continuing up the left seam, and Ultraviolet Ammunition traversing right to gain the right seam.

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Death Dealer
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
[Hide Comment] Sooo much spray, so much beta! How does one expect a climber to onsight with such ridiculous amounts of over hype?! This is the problem with modern climbing and development! Play for play beta spray photo/video, gear lists with GPS coordinates. Much disappointment! Northern Arizona is played out, no more new routes, and top ropes everywhere! Sep 19, 2014
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] C'monÂ…... We all know that the best MP route descriptions are edited then re-edited with a fine toothed comb so they will achieve a maximum number of page views. A masterpiece may be in the works. Sep 19, 2014
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] A masterpiece this route description is not, however the route itself certainly is. Really one of the best basalt 5.12's I've done. Sep 27, 2014
[Hide Comment] Adding bolts eh? Its almost like you want other people to climb your routes. Hmm, interesting. Sep 29, 2014
[Hide Comment] Um... sounds like someone needs to go put up his own routes in a style he finds acceptable. Sep 29, 2014
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] Maybe you should change the name to Life Saver.... Good work you guys. I rapped this line years ago, and thought it looked pretty good. Looking forward to checking it out one of these days. Sep 29, 2014
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
[Hide Comment] Alex is no stranger to putting up routes in a variety of style and when he is back I am guessing he will do more of it. Hope the hammie is getting better Alex.s Sep 30, 2014