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Routes in Holy Buttress Cliff

Dr. Strange Glove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holy Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rat Race T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rude Intrusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unholy Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Vertebrae T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Preston Rhea, Steph Lozano - 9.3.2014
Page Views: 170 total · 4/month
Shared By: Preston Rhea on Sep 17, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a variation to the Holy Buttress.

Knobby face climbing above a boulder leads to a thin crack. The R rating comes from these first handful of moves. The gear is thin and relatively spaced out with a bad landing. Follow the thin crack to a large ledge.

This climb can be done in one long pitch, but it may be better to break it into two shorter ones to avoid rope drag issues. The ledge is the obvious place to break up the climb.

Broken climbing above the ledge leads to another short headwall. Either take the right arching crack on the right or the crack into gully on the left.

Location

Starts on top of the boulder immediately right of Holy Buttress.

There is no fixed anchor at top. Walk off climber's left back to the base.

Protection

Standard rock rack to 2.5".

Photos

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