Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mount Gimli

Another Dimension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Dark Side of the Moon T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
East Ridge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
North Face Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rumble in the Jungle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sailor Jerry T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Slave to Gravity T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Slave to Gravity (Direct Start) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
South Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Space Jam T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A1 PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 650 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: JT Croston and Nick Seymour
Page Views: 119 total, 3/month
Shared By: JT Croston on Sep 16, 2014
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

First pitch 5.7 - follow low angle rock to grassy ledge and climb up obvious corner below main arete. Semi-hanging belay below small roof (30m). Second pitch 5.9 - squeeze through roof chimney and continue up corner to nice belay below big roof/steep section (25m). Pitch 3 5.10 a/b - Climb easy line through the roof and continue past another small roof to a steep crack at the base of the arete; step right to bolted belay (40m). Pitch 4 5.10 - step right of arete onto face and through obvious crack to steep shallow flaring face/corner cracks (crux 1) to a belay just below a single bolt (30m). Note the belay is small gear and nuts so the bolt could make part of the anchor. Pitch 5 5.10 - continue up the face crack through a steep corner crack and two more bolts, past a small roof (crux 2) to easy ground and the summit (50 m - avoid rope drag by extenders on cams placed into the roof).

Location

From the Mulvey Basin col follow the goat trail, descend through gully past loose rock to the base of the wall below the arete.

Protection

Double BD cams to #3 (one #3 might be ok) and nuts

Photos

0 Comments