Avg: 2.9 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1050 ft (318 m), 9 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||John Lindstrom and Gene Hebert, July 25, 1959|
|Page Views:||5,154 total · 60/month|
|Shared By:||Richard Denker on Sep 16, 2014|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
The climb can be divided into four distant parts.
Part 1: About 70m of fun, clean slab with many cracks for protection. The slabs begin on the south side of the ridge about 50 feet from the foot of the ridge. The slabs end on top of the ridge at two dead snags.
Part 2: A fun easy 3rd and easy 5th class walk along a narrow ridge for about three rope lengths. This part of the climb ends on a ledge with a large dead snag on the right side.
Part 3: A short 30m or so pitch up the headwall. The large dead snag makes for a scary 5.5 rock-tree climb of the headwall. However you may find other routes off the ledge. Belay at any convent spot. This pitch is the crux of the climb.
Part 4: Easy climbing for three to four rope lengths leads to the summit. This portion of the climb contains loose rock and is basically scrambling from one broke ledge to another. There are many options and routes, which can be taken. (I have climbed this route at least 6 times and have never done this part of the climb the same twice.) With very careful route finding you can avoid most if not all of the loose rock. BE FOREWARNED: with bad luck and errors in route finding it is quite possible to only experience loose rock.
Descent: From the summit head north for about 100 feet to a chimney, down climb the chimney and continue for another 250 feet or so to the top of a single rope rap to a large notch. (There may be single rope rappel stations from the summit to the notch.) From the notch there are two options. If daylight is not an issue, follow the North Ridge approach path along the top of the North Ridge north until it is possible to hike off to the east and continue cross-country to Hortense Lake. If daylight is a concern drop down the scree slope to the west until you reach the PCT. Follow it north to FS 881 or if a car shuttle, head to Patjens Lakes trailhead at Big Lake.