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Routes in Chief Wall

Chief Mo'o-wai (Shaking Hand) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chief Po-bisho-e-quasho (Iron Jacket) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chief Salad S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chief Sick-ee-Gnar S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
General George Custer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Geronimossimo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hin-mah-too-yah-lat-tekt S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kansas City Chiefs S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Big Horn S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Chief S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Makhpiya-Luta S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quanah - Last Comanche Warrior Chief S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scout S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tatanka-lyotanka S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Too Many Chiefs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Buffalo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
White Fish S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yah-Keerah T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: David Gutzman, Ron Hicks
Page Views: 371 total · 8/month
Shared By: David Gutzman on Sep 15, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Straight up through the Big Horn! Vertical fun on solid flakes!

Location

10 feet right of General George Custer. Look up for the obvious "Big Horn"!

Protection

5 bolts. Anchors on top.

Photos

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AJP
SLC, UT
  5.8
AJP   SLC, UT
  5.8
Lots of fun on flakes. There is a massive loose flake, not massively loose, but massive in size, about 3/4 of the way up. It is discolored, black. Sep 20, 2014
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
There is currently a massive belayer killer wedged in right next to the 3rd or 4th bolt. It wiggles and will probably come out with tools. We tried to scratch an X on it. Be cautious. Jun 21, 2015
Peter Lenz
Salt Lake City
  5.8
Peter Lenz   Salt Lake City
  5.8
I agree with the AJP and Garret. The moves are fun, but there are numerous loose flakes peppered on this route (in addition to the one mentioned previously.) Someone is likely to pull one of these off and bean his/her belayer. Given that the route is one of the easiest on the wall, it is likely to attract inexperienced climbers. This is a recipe for an accident, hence my "bomb," rating. Test your holds well, and have your helmeted belayer standing well off to the side, if you must climb this one. Aug 19, 2015
Graden Swett
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Graden Swett   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Well, its 2017 now and that block is still there and is still loose. It seems pretty wedged in there, upon closer inspection it looks like it has a pretty sizeable ledge holding it in place and the whole chunk of this climbs namesake resting against it from the other side.
There was also another, smaller hold on the way up that was pretty loose, on your way up to Big X. You don't need either to complete the route.
The route, although the flakes are thin, is incredibly fun. Pull, lightly, hand over hand until you reach the dihedral for some stemming action! Awesomely positive holds to the anchor - uniquely awesome 8!
Wear a helmet! Jul 20, 2017

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