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Routes in Red Eagle

Triple Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wham Bam Thank You Jam T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Matt Schutz, Sean Neville, 9/2009
Page Views: 719 total · 18/month
Shared By: Aaron Liebling on Sep 15, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Stout old-school feeling climbing with a great variety of moves. The 5.9+(+++) second pitch involves a strenuous roof over a potentially nasty ledge fall. Be prepared for physical and devious climbing (hint: offwidth technique will help!).

P1 - Hard 10a - 25m - Very strenuous left-facing corner. Climb it up to the roof using jams, stemming and lie-backing. From the roof, move up/right to a thin crack (may be overgrown/full of dirt) and continue up a left-slanting crack to a belay.

P2 - 5.9+ - Note the plus! Head up the thin pocketed finger crack on sustained climbing. The first roof is past easily with good gear and jugs. The second roof features an inobvious sequence beginning with a stem out left and a high jug entering in to the off-width crack at its top. Be careful, as falling from here would likely land one on the ledge below. Continue along the easy off-width and belay where convenient.

P3 - 5.8 - 50m - Easy face to the summit.

descent


Double rope rap from Drink Till You Stink or head back and climber's right to descend the gully between Red Eagle and Gray Eagle.

Location

On the right side of Red Eagle, starting up the obvious lie-back corner to the right of the red dihedral (huge obvious left facing dihedral).

Protection

Large rack to single 4"

Photos

squiddo Marc
Mountain View, CA
5.10a
squiddo Marc   Mountain View, CA
5.10a
Did the route and loved it. Got to climb it with one of the first ascentionists and agree it's great. Do the first pitch as a cragging one or do all three to the summit.

Note- I added a bolt to the belay on the first pitch. This was done to create an anchor for those that just want to do the first pitch and rap off. It was done to replace a missing cam the FA set to combine with one bolt for an anchor. It's now doubled up and solid. Oct 21, 2015
Drew Marshall
  5.10a
Drew Marshall  
  5.10a
Awesome route!
Comes into the shade mid-day
A large cam (5 or 6 inch) can protect you from a ledge fall on the pitch 2 crux, and will help protect your second too (use smart rope management to make sure it doesn't get sucked into the crack!) Oct 7, 2014