Type: Trad, 420 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 596 total · 11/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Sep 15, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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The rightmost route on the face. The first pitch corner is the world's most perfect habitat for ferns and moss, or so it seems. Bring a stiff brush and wait for DRY weather if you want to climb this. The rest of the route, however you decide to do it (there are 4 ways to go - see the guidebook) is really good climbing.


See photo to locate the start. The 2 ft, triangular roof 7 ft up the corner is a good landmark, as is the coffee table-size flat rock just out from the base of the corner.


Normal rack to 3". Bring at least one 4" cam if you plan on finishing on "variation 3". Rap the route with two 60m ropes.


Jim Lawyer    
This is considered by some to be the best route (in the grade, at least) at Sugarloaf, better than Quadrophenia and Hesitation. The first pitch is horribly overgrown (even though it's been cleaned many times in the past).

To more easily approach the upper pitches, start 25' left in a depression and climb horrible grunge up and right to a fixed anchor of the original route. This is the line of the original ascent. The upper climbing is totally worth it. Sep 16, 2014