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Routes in Sugarloaf

Dark Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deja View T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dreadnaught T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fistful of Stoppers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heroes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Magic Carpet Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Return to Sender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Sole Fusion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soul Confusion T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Superman Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tier Pressure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Valar Dohaeris T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 420 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 467 total, 12/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Sep 15, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

The rightmost route on the face. The first pitch corner is the world's most perfect habitat for ferns and moss, or so it seems. Bring a stiff brush and wait for DRY weather if you want to climb this. The rest of the route, however you decide to do it (there are 4 ways to go - see the guidebook) is really good climbing.

Location

See photo to locate the start. The 2 ft, triangular roof 7 ft up the corner is a good landmark, as is the coffee table-size flat rock just out from the base of the corner.

Protection

Normal rack to 3". Bring at least one 4" cam if you plan on finishing on "variation 3". Rap the route with two 60m ropes.

Photos

Jim Lawyer    
 
This is considered by some to be the best route (in the grade, at least) at Sugarloaf, better than Quadrophenia and Hesitation. The first pitch is horribly overgrown (even though it's been cleaned many times in the past).

To more easily approach the upper pitches, start 25' left in a depression and climb horrible grunge up and right to a fixed anchor of the original route. This is the line of the original ascent. The upper climbing is totally worth it. Sep 16, 2014