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Routes in Sugarloaf

Dark Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deja View T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dreadnaught T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fistful of Stoppers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heroes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Magic Carpet Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Return to Sender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Sole Fusion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soul Confusion T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Superman Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tier Pressure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Valar Dohaeris T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 360 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Oct 2010
Page Views: 589 total · 14/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Sep 15, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

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Nice climb on mostly clean rock. Aesthetics are marred by the insecure steps into the trees for a couple of the belays. The route is notable for tackling significant overlaps in the steepest part of the face.


The route starts at a flake that - if you use your imagination - looks like the Superman emblem (see photo). The original goal was to get to the striking tall spruce tree above the huge arch. The tree is the belay atop P2, and there's another smaller tree a few moves higher if you don't want to make the unprotected walk across the dirt-covered ledge to get to the tree. Two options exist for finishing the route: 5.4 R or 5.10a/b. Rap the route with two 60m ropes.


Standard rack, include lots of small cams. The fixed pin on P2 has a habit of falling out (the crack is wet and opens/closes seasonally. A Ball Nut might possibly fit if the pin is gone.


The pin at the start of the overlap moves of P2 has been replaced. But bring a red (or the next larger size) BallNut if you have one, just in case this new pin doesn't like that perpetually wet crack any more than the old one did. Aug 18, 2015
Yea, it's not there; what's left of it is hanging in my garage. I think a SMC-type baby angle might work better in there. Until then, Ball-Nut it is. It protects a sketchy move but it's just a few feet off a flat spot, and you get the next gear as soon as you commit to the step up IIRC. Sep 30, 2014
beensandbagged   R.I.
The piton is currently AWOl (Sept 2014) at least I could not find it,a ball nut seems to work well. Sep 30, 2014

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