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Routes in Sugarloaf

Dark Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deja View T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dreadnaught T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fistful of Stoppers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heroes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Magic Carpet Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Return to Sender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Sole Fusion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soul Confusion T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Superman Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tier Pressure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Valar Dohaeris T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,647 total, 42/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Sep 15, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Instant classic testpiece for the friction climbing crowd. 27 years in the making. Tackles the biggest, baddest sweep of open rock on the face.

Location

Left side of the face. Rap the route 3x with two 60m ropes.

Protection

Listed in this database as a trad route but it is well bolted. A few pieces in the sub 1" size will make the diagonal crack of P1 feel better, and Camalots are needed higher up, as noted in the guidebook. About 10 draws for the bolts.
Jim Lawyer    
 
The top anchor was removed...again. There's a new fixed anchor 30' right; look for bolts just over the lip. This straightens out the rappel too. The raps are 40m, 45m, and 50m. Sep 24, 2015
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
 
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
 
This route is very, very good. There are tons of real friction moves which are hard to come by in such quantity at any climbing area. I thought the first three pitches were the best and can be done in two with a 70m rope. Nov 18, 2014
Jim Lawyer    
 
This route is awesome, the best of its kind in the park.

You need #0.5 and #1 Camalot for P1. After that, it's all fixed until the last pitch, which requires a #3 Camalot. The P4 belay requires #1 and #2 Camalots.

As of the beginning of Sep, 2014, the top anchor is missing. You'll need some long cord to re-establish this. Sep 16, 2014