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Routes in Saco Crag

Birch Tree Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mother Jugs & Speed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roadside Attraction T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Saco Cracker T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V Groove, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: Todd Swain, 1982
Page Views: 633 total, 16/month
Shared By: Kari Post on Sep 14, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Climb over a block to the start of the climb. From there, you will find a nice crack to the left of the corner and a second thinner crack that forms the corner itself. Climb these, protecting where necessary, up to the block that forms a roof. Go around the block and over the birch tree, then through the remaining blocks at the top. The very top can be dirty and covered in lichen and pine needles, so be careful when walking off.

This is an interesting 5.6, because it is slightly overhung, but all of the handholds are large and solid. Feet can be a little tricky to find and can require a little balancing work.

Location

This route is located near the middle of the wall that makes the crag, right where the approach trail Ts to go either direction. A quick look around will tell you you are in the right place, as the only routes to either side are 5.10+ to 5.12+.

Protection

Standard medium sized cams work well and the crack to the right will take large nuts. A sling is useful for protecting off the birch tree the route is named after. Build your own anchor off trees at the top using static, as suitable anchor trees are a bit away from the edge. There is no hardware of any kind on this route.

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