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Routes in Black and Tan

Blue Eyed V3-4 6A+
Filla Void V5-6 6C+
Kids Are For Chicks V2+ 5+
Milky Way V3-4 6A+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 103 total, 3/month
Shared By: Emerson Takahashi on Sep 12, 2014
Admins: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

A stellar line of pockets!
Several variations exist, my personal favorite uses two monos :)

Fun line to a nice mantel

Location

Sit/squat start in the left-most pair of pockets just above Blue Eyed, and make fun moves through the pockets to the right. About 3 moves in, you can go up with your left to a decent mono(and them move to another mono with your right), or make an awkward left cross to a slightly better hold. Easy topout, just find the pocket in the back.

Protection

Landing is a bit awkward, 2 pads should cover it

Photos

Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
 
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
 
I think previous guidebooks have described the line as starting the same as Blue Eye, but I would have to double check. (Isaac's seems to have a handful of errors, though it's hard to blame due to the mass amount of boulders in Joe's...)

The line of pockets leads right into blue eye though, so to me, starting to the right felt too much like starting from halfway in. Either way, pretty fun moderate Nov 23, 2015
Brian Koralewski
Springville, Utah
  V3
Brian Koralewski   Springville, Utah
  V3
Caldiero's guide calls it a stand-start well to the right of Blue-Eyed lie, starting on a left-hand gaston, and heads up past a nice mono hold. 2-3 moves to a grovel top-out. If the traverse in from Blue-Eyed lie is added in, it should probably be considered a separate, new line. Nov 20, 2015
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
 
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
 
Guide books call this one easier than blue eyed, but from the proper start, it feels more like v4 Sep 13, 2014