Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Vector Madness Wall

Boy Cooper T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doubling the Cube S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Halcyon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hop Rising Point T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lack of Principle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pi in the Sky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straddle the Pony T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
TVC S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tangent T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vector Madness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vertical Component T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zach's Theorem S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: KW, JS, Aug. 2014
Page Views: 380 total · 8/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Sep 12, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a long bolted line right of Vector and Tangent, starting up an easy bolted face then eventually climbing over steep bulges left of the largest roofs on the crag. There is a section of out-of-character scrambling, and a wee bit of contrivance, but the direct line and air below your feet as you crank the bulges warrant three stars IMO. The first bolt is maybe 40 feet up, but 5.0 climbing to get to it.

Location

About 30 feet right and downhill from the start to Vector Madness. Rap or lower from chains (70 meter rope).

Protection

One can get by with 7 draws, maybe a few on the long side, and a biner or two for the chains. If real nervous, one or two hand-size cams should help (use for the section before the steep bulges).

Photos

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Finally got around to finishing this after bailing by traversing to Vector Madness anchors in fading light last year. I also wasn't sure a 60m rope would get us off, but you can rap from the low anchors to the easy rock at the start of the route with one. This is a worthy route with fun climbing through the roof where finding the best holds is challenging. I was glad to have a 1, .5, and .75 camalot to supplement the 9 bolts. Aug 17, 2017
zoso
  5.10c
zoso  
  5.10c
DO NOT go to the anchor for the 12's on this route. Use the Vector Madness anchor. If TR/cleaning from the former, there's a high possibility that a fall after unclipping the last bolt will result in a right-swinging nightmare across a VERY sharp edge. And unless your rope is braided steel....

With that said, this is a fantastic route. Even the slab down low is worthy, but the $$ is the big roofs and overhangs. Holds are all there and the route is perfectly clean. Have at it. May 20, 2018
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
That would be true for sure zoso if you didn't place a directional above the roof. With the directional, I like the lower anchor as I can see the seconding climber. Jun 1, 2018

More About Lack of Principle

Printer-Friendly