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Routes in Vector Madness Wall

Boy Cooper T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doubling the Cube S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Halcyon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hop Rising Point T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lack of Principle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pi in the Sky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straddle the Pony T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
TVC S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tangent T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vector Madness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vertical Component T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zach's Theorem S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: JS, KW, Aug. 2014
Page Views: 149 total, 4/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Sep 12, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Microgear and memorable exposure characterize this fine trad line. It starts about 15 feet right and downhill from Vector Madness by climbing a discontinuous seam up into and out the top of a short corner and toward an obvious, gently overhanging Lost Arrow crack. From the top of the LA crack climb a left-facing corner until possible to step right to easy ground. From here continue up for about 15 feet and step left onto a nice red face leading to the top. Tricky gear placements are required to protect the starting seam and KB crack, but patience and craft make it suitably safe.

Location

Right of Vector Madness. One rap (or lower) with a 70 meter rope from chains, otherwise catch another rap at the belay atop Vector Madness.

Protection

Trad rack up to 2 to 2.5 inch cams, including microcams and brass/steel nuts (offsets useful).

Photos

Wow this is fun! The line kinda jumps out at you and typical BCC gear is all there. Be sure to bring loads of long slings for the easier, upper section above the crux. Once the line takes you left and 10' above the anchors for VM/VC, its worth going up to the upper anchors out right, just for the views of Steorts and High Dive. Maybe bring a couple feet of chain to replace the webbing at that anchor. (Its in good condition but will equalize it for the long term.) Aug 2, 2015