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Routes in Plateau Boulder

Flight of the Nuthatch V7 7A+
Flight of the Nuthatch (crouch) V4-5 6B+
Flip The Lip V1+ 5
Grand Traverse V4 6B
Maze Runner V6- 7A
Nipple Cream V2 5+
North Side Slabby V1 5
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 111 total, 3/month
Shared By: Dan Pfistner on Sep 12, 2014
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


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Description

This is one of the most well-rounded and consistently challenging lines in the area!

Sit start using an okay edge under the roof, and very challenging feet. Using a remarkable combination of technical footwork, finger strength, flexibility, balance, and body tension, make a tough move around the lip to a small crimp and try to keep your feet on. Adjust and find a good crimp above the lip with your left. Adjust again, and make a reach to a good crimp that will allow you to get past the lip (crux), and finish up the easy slab arĂȘte.

Once on top, take a nap on the sunny platform (optional) before hopping off at the start of the Grand Traverse.

A squat start that begins on the two opposed, slanting crimps above the lip is a good variation that goes around V4/5.

Location

It is opposite the start of the Grand Traverse, or across the corridor from North Side Slabby, next to Little Agassiz.

Protection

A pad or two, watch out for the tree.

Photos

Dan Pfistner
BEVERLY, MA
 
Dan Pfistner   BEVERLY, MA
 
Haha, if I stack a second pad, I can reach that too I think, but features under there were too tempting to pass up!

It's a cool problem however you start it though. Sep 22, 2014
Nice send, Dan.

I can sit start this reaching up to the arete with my left and the bottom of the ok crimp with my right, but the start way under the lip seemed really hard.

Jim Sep 22, 2014
Old Timer
North Andover MA
Old Timer   North Andover MA  
Dan,

That's about right for the squat start on the lip with the crimp bar V4-5) and the sit under the roof is V7.

Pete (Old Timer) Sep 12, 2014
Dan Pfistner
BEVERLY, MA
 
Dan Pfistner   BEVERLY, MA
 
Let me know if this has been done, and who/when/etc. There are lots of strong climbers lurking around Cape Ann it seems, and I'm hesitant to claim any first ascent, but I've never seen any chalk over here, so I thought I'd add it.

I gave it a name, because I didn't have any info and would appreciate any clarification - especially if this is a known problem and input on the grading. Sep 12, 2014