Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Casey Graham, Katrina Kiang
Page Views: 153 total · 3/month
Shared By: Casey Graham on Sep 11, 2014
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details
Access Issue: Only approach from East (State Park) side. West side is on Private Property Details


Pitch 1. Scramble up a varied and low angle crack (hands to OW) that cuts up and then left following a left-facing corner - 5.3ish. Move around a crumbly boulder on its left, then walk about 100 feet to your right up the ramp until your rope runs out a the base of a huge cove/chimney. Extend your pro on this or rope drag will get bad.

Pitch 2. head up the cove/chimney thinking 3-dimensionally as there are huge holds and ledges all around you. Use the large flake if you dare for good hand jams (5.4). Exit the chimney onto boulders, and climb the flakes and slab on your right to gain the top, or, stay in the chimney as it tightens and OW it to the top (more 5.7ish). Belay in the big crack at your feet or the vertical one leading to the tip top.

There are metal bars that were hammered into the flakes on the slab. They look old, and they are loose. Sling at your own risk. I [used] one as a quick rap from the top but wouldn't recommend it as I got the rope stuck and had to free it and downclimb anyway.

Decent: downclimb the easy slab and scramble down the bulgy ramp on the rock's East side. If you want to leave gear, you can rap off the top on either side as well, just don't do it on the west side as this will land you on private property.


Start below a large bulge with at a right-leaning ramp at its right at the lowest part of the formation on its north side (about 75 feet from the private property fence).


Set of nuts, BD C4s to 1 each #0.75-5. We used and 2 #1s.