Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 648 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Sep 11, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

This is simply an amazing route. Great rock and interesting climbing throughout. Not a move harder than 5.11b, but it really feels like 5.12 because of the pump. The location can't be beat.

Make an easy boulder move to gain the crack, then follow this through a thin section (crux) to easier climbing past a natural thread. Continue up to where the crack angles back left. At this point there are two options. The original ascent followed this left-leaning crack up, then switched to a smaller crack to the left, then finally switched to yet another crack on the left to topout. Alternatively, you can traverse left (similar to It's Only Entertainment, but with better pro) to the base of the third crack and follow this to the top.

The top cracks were once quite clean, but are now (Sep 2014) a little dirty, but not so much that it hinders the climbing.

There's a fixed anchor on a tree where one can lower with a 60m rope. Watch that the rope doesn't get buried in the cracks on the lower (might be wise to belay from the top because of this).

Location

On the main wall, where the wall is the tallest and most sheer. This is the obvious right-leaning crack through orange rock.

Protection

Double rack to 3", triples in sizes to 1.5".

Photos

Christian Schrader
West Hartford, CT
 
Christian Schrader   West Hartford, CT
 
Needs to be climbed more! Foot chips were falling off all over this thing. Luckily the crack is very featured and there are tons of options for feet (due to the character of the rock). With some more traffic this could be a classic. Bring a wire brush... Oct 18, 2014
This is a great line. With more traffic it should clean up nicely. The route climbs an overhanging crack with plenty of face and footholds to keep the grade within the mid 5.11 range. At 2/3rds height there are many options. If you take the left traverse to the left most crack, be delicate with your feet (lots of friable flakes)and bring a brush to clean up the last 20feet to the top (the crack is really dirty).
Oct 20, 2014