Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 940 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Sep 11, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

This is simply an amazing route. Great rock and interesting climbing throughout. Not a move harder than 5.11b, but it really feels like 5.12 because of the pump. The location can't be beat.

Make an easy boulder move to gain the crack, then follow this through a thin section (crux) to easier climbing past a natural thread. Continue up to where the crack angles back left. At this point there are two options. The original ascent followed this left-leaning crack up, then switched to a smaller crack to the left, then finally switched to yet another crack on the left to topout. Alternatively, you can traverse left (similar to It's Only Entertainment, but with better pro) to the base of the third crack and follow this to the top.

The top cracks were once quite clean, but are now (Sep 2014) a little dirty, but not so much that it hinders the climbing.

There's a [new/2018] fixed anchor just below the rim where one can lower with a 60m rope. This anchor avoids the rope getting very stuck in the topout crack.

Location

On the main wall, where the wall is the tallest and most sheer. This is the obvious right-leaning crack through orange rock.

Protection

Double rack to 3", triples in sizes to 1.5".

Photos