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Routes in Pedra de Cumbira

South Ridge S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 1000 ft, 6 pitches
FA: R. Araujo P. Cunha (JAN2013)
Page Views: 173 total · 4/month
Shared By: Pat M on Sep 11, 2014
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Description

P1: Start on south shoulder of the dome, look for first bolt ~15-20 feet up. 7-8 bolts. 2 bolt belay. 5.4 (200')
P2-P4: Follow easy rock past safely spaced bolts with 2 bolt belays. 5.4-5.6 (200' each)
P5: Straight up steep part of shoulder past adequate bolts. Follow line of least-lichen. Crux comes about mid-pitch and continues with delicate friction on lichen to 2 bolt belay. 5.8+ (200')
P6: Off belay climbing gradually eases. Follow bolts over some small flakes to a belay just below the start of vegetation at which point the slab is walk-able.
Walk to the summit from here.

Location

South end of Pedra Cumbira... in the grass just above the south end of the village. Easy to locate and the villagers will show you the way if you ask.

Protection

12-15 quick draws/long slings. Well-bolted with solid 2 bolt belays. Must have 2 x 60m ropes to rappel. Most of the belays do not have ledges, but the slab is low angle enough for them to be relatively comfortable. Nevertheless, bring a thick padded harness if you have one.

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