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Regular Route (aka Central Gully) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,563 total · 78/month
Shared By: Joe Silver on Sep 10, 2014
Admins: Mike Engle

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

This route follows the obvious gully system on the right side of the slab.

P0 - Walk up to first tree covered ledge (some parties may want a rope)

P1 - From the tree covered ledge climb up and around the right side of a large block and into the gully. Follow the gully until you encounter a small ledge with a two pin belay.

P2 - Continue up the gully, bypassing a roof on the right and reaching a two bolt belay shortly thereafter.

P3 - Climb a crack in a left facing flare until it peters out, then climb straight up to the groove above. Pull around a small roof on cool holds and you should find a three pin belay on a ledge to the left.

P4 - Follow a thin crack in a shallow right facing corner until you find a good spot to belay (we didn't quite reach the trees)

P5 - Easy climbing leads to the trees if you are not there yet

Walk off to the right and back to your packs

Protection [Suggest Change]

Single rack to 2" should be fine

Photos

Scott Morris
Bountiful, UT
  5.6 PG13
Scott Morris   Bountiful, UT
  5.6 PG13
Fun climb. We simul-climbed to the first tree covered ledge, and then roped up for 5 pitches to the top and walked off. Sep 14, 2015
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6 PG13
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6 PG13
A couple notes:

The social trail breaks off to the north within 30 feet of the boardwalks ending. If you haven't guessed, this slab faces south, towards Elephant's Perch.

P0 is a full 60m pitch and then some if started from the toe of the slab. I belayed off of a tree on the left. There are slings on the largest tree on the right.

There are still the two pins on top of P1 but I also noticed two bolts to the left of those pins after I already climbed P2.

P2 has some healthy runouts between gear. Enough that I think this climb would warrant a PG13 or R rating if you are a 5.6 climber. If this isn't at your limit it'll just be some spicy sections.

All of the pitches can gobble up a lot of gear since they're pretty long. If you've got a double rack you'll appreciate it in a few spots. I had a single rack and made do.

I don't think there's any way you can finish in 4 pitches if you use the bolted/pin belays. 5 pitches seems like the minimum. I belayed in the larger right facing corner/chimney above P4 and then barely made it to the top with a 60m rope from there. Sep 20, 2015
Michael Parker
Tulsa, OK
  5.6
Michael Parker   Tulsa, OK
  5.6
We climbed with a guide and they broke the climb out into 7 pitches. The guide soloed up to a ledge and used hip belay to bring us up then soloed up to the first set of trees which he slung for an anchor. The rest of the route had either bolts or pitons at the belays. There are few protection options for the first half of the climb, but after that the pitches get a little steeper and more cracks offer better protection.

You get a great view of Redfish Lake and Elephant's Perch from the top. This is a great climb and shouldn't be missed as it can be climbed quickly and is one of the more accessible routes in the area. Sep 7, 2016
Andy Munas
Phoenixville, PA
 
Andy Munas   Phoenixville, PA
 
Most of this route is just pretty good. But... the 60 meter long flare corner, to stemming, to pulling the roof on hand jams is as good as it gets for the grade. It is shocking that it is as easy as it is. Every so often it starts to get really hard and then you find the hold of your dreams tucked under that flare! Aug 28, 2017
Joshua Benjamin
Nampa, Idaho
 
Joshua Benjamin   Nampa, Idaho
 
I thought this route was as good as it gets for the grade. I didn't find the three pin belay at the top of the third pitch after pulling the roof though. There is a decent ledge with a crack and a piton to build an anchor if you have the right sized gear.

I agree with Garret about P2 being pretty sparce for gear. There was nothing there to protect pulling around that large block. Sep 18, 2017

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