Type: Trad, Alpine, 750 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Riccardo Cassin, Gigi Vitali, Luigi Pozzi 1934
Page Views: 464 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tim Wolfe on Sep 9, 2014
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

This is a steep, relatively bold line up the South face of Cima Piccolissima. The rock appears shattered but due to innumerable ascents it is solid and clean with crisp edges and in-cut jugs. The final pitches (10 and 11 to the true summit) are loose and generally avoided by traversing directly left for 70 meters to the rappels.
Pitch 1 / 2: 5.7 50 meters – you can do both first pitches as a single pitch with good sling and rope technique and establish yourself in a good spot for belaying the next more difficult pitches. Begin on a ledge at the base of the obvious dihedral – climb this corner/ the face left of this corner for 20 meters to a ledge. Put in gear with a long sling. Walk around to the left then climb up and finish on a crack leading to the next large ledge. Clip the belay here and continue traversing 20 more meters right and belay just below a right leaning ramp.
Pitch 3 / 4: 40 m 5.10a – Again you can combine pitches to save time and to avoid a terrible belay if you are careful about slinging gear to avoid rope drag. Climb the ramp/open book corner and step right to a terrible hanging belay point (20 meters up). Long sling this belay and traverse directly left (down a little) on improbable holds to easier ground then climb up before placing more gear (beware of drag). Finish up the crack/groove on shattered appearing but quite solid rock (crux), then step right to a good belay ledge on a small pillar.
Pitch 5 / 6: 5.10c 50 meters: Climb the roof directly off the ledge (pitons protect it to just over the roof). Clear the roof then climb easier but runout rock to a pair of pins 20 feet further up. Next to them is a nice 0.75 cam placement. Additional difficult face and crack leads to a flake and easier ground. Climb the large flake to its point then up an easy crack to the traverse (a bolted belay is off to the right if you want to stop but this will add another pitch to your climb due to rope issues). Clip the piton just above the traverse, step down and hand traverse easy rock directly left (5.7) for 20 meters to belay at a ledge at the base of a corner (1 pin, some gear needed). If you split this pitch you will still need to stop here on the next belay due to rope drag concerns.
Pitch 7: 5.7 25 m – Climb the corner to the top of the pillar. Step over the top and belay at 2 pitons.
Pitch 8/9: 5.9 55 meters – Step left around the corner on easy ledges then turn up and climb straight up just left of the arête until you are nearly out of rope. Belay at a 1-2 foot wide traverse ledge.
Pitch 10: 5.3 70 meters – Traverse left 65-70 meters to the very end of the ledge and the North face of the mountain. Belay at the large rappel ring at the point dropping down into the slot.

Location

Parking – Drive to Misurina (20 minutes north of Cortina). Just north of Misurina, turn right and follow signs up the small road north east into the Tre Cime area until you reach the toll booth. At this point there are two options: 1. Pay the 24 euro toll and drive the 5 KM up to the car park at Rifugio Auronzo and park. 2. Park just below the tool booth and hike up the well marked path (#101 – signed about 30 yards down from the parking) for 1-2 hours to Rifugio Auronzo – saving the 24 Euros for dinner or booze at the end of the day but adding a bit of hiking to the days start and end.
Approach: From Rifugio Auronzo hike towards rifugio Lavaredo on the huge, busy path below the southern aspect of the Tre Cime. Continue past the Rifugio under the wall you will be climbing to the pass (Paternasattel) then traverse back left on the trial directly along the base of the wall to its left side and to the slot (Dulfer couloir). Just before the slot you can gear up and leave your packs in a cave. Climb up the slot 15-20 meters then traverse back right to the base of the climb. This section of the walk takes 30 minutes.
Descent: From the end of the 70 meter traverse you come to a rappel ring. Double ropes are best. Rap into the notch to another single stainless ring. Another double rope rappel followed by very careful walking down loose rocks leads to another ring. One very long rap and one short rap lead to an area where you can walk down to your packs. Be VERY WARY of other climbers above or below you. It is almost impossible to not send potentially fatal rock fall down the slot. Move fast to get out when it is your turn, wait for the group below to clear the rappels before you start the section from the notch.

Protection

Single set of cams including a few microcams, single set of wires, 1-2 threads, many long slings, quick draws.

Photos

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