Type: Trad, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: Bob Milward, Jim Campbell 1983
Page Views: 351 total · 4/month
Shared By: Mark Roberts on Sep 8, 2014
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Camping and COVID-19 - Guidelines Details

Description

While this route looks like an ugly offwidth battle, the crack is featured enough on the sides to climb like a jughaul. There are maybe two legitimate jams needed, the rest is edges and jugs. The crux is actually after the chimney, when you need to pull into the upper crack - the chimney is maybe 5.7.

Starting to get scruffy again, so climb it!

Location

Deep, wide, chimney-like groove to the right of Thorax Complaint.

Protection

I placed two #4s, a blue metolius and a #2 Camalot above the break. You could probably get away with a standard rack - there's enough options around to climb this safely without anything bigger than a #2.

3/8" bolts at the top that I wouldn't rap from. I'd recommend cleaning your anchor, walking to the big tree and rapping from that. (Or belay from the top so and you and your partner can follow the shortcut at the top of the crag to Funarama.)

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