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Bad Finger Extended (BFE)

5.11-, Trad, 110 ft,  Avg: 3.2 from 6 votes
FA: Wally Fox (8/30/14)
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (z) Lower Gorge > W Side > (2) Wildfire Wall

Description

After looking at the seam above Bad Finger for years I decided to give it a go because Forrest Kaye was going for it on other extensions in the Gorge. The seam will lead you to a corner. Once in the corner you can pull some big moves through the roof and mantle the "pool table".

Location

The route is above Bad Finger, climb up and left until you are stemming on the bad finger and on the road columns. From hear you follow the seam and corner to the roof.

Protection

The extension will take two purple Metolius, 1 or 2 #2 ball nuts, and nuts. Anchor and chains at the top. Pulling the final roof and mantling is heads up as you are climbing above your nuts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] In addition to the mantel being heads up, make sure to runner your gear! I didn't and all my little off-set wires fell out before I pulled the move... Sep 8, 2014
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Great addition to the lower gorge. Thanks for putting it up. Aug 2, 2015
[Hide Comment] I feel most comfortable when I climb above my nuts. Jun 19, 2016
Wally Fox
Bend, OR
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Sweet Nathan! Glad you got on it! I've been wondering if I should put a bolt on it or leave it how it is? The bolt would ensure a bit more safety but keeping it a gear route has value too. Jun 30, 2016