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Routes in The Court House Wall

Absence of Faith. S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Badgering the Witness a.k.a. "The Drilled Sergeant" S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bailiff, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Court Chester S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Electric Chair S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Executioner S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Faith S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Gavel, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Hard Time S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jugs Judy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jury Tampering aka "The Jury Box" S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Justice Served S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Juvenile, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Legal Eagle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stiff Sentence S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Temporary Insanity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whopgnar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Witness Protection S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Equipped by Nate Renner & Blake Workman. FA: Greg Parker. Rebolted to new and better territory in 2014 by Lee Terveen.
Page Views: 427 total · 9/month
Shared By: BBQ on Sep 7, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

Starts on Executioner's flake and gives you a burly pump to a series of two finger pockets and monos at a 4th bolt on the black face to your right. Don't stray to the left where easier climbing takes you to the blonde, flat top of the flake. Get yourself setup good and dig in. Take down a crux on blank, black rock with sickie-small holds. Make your way up an overhung section to a nice bowling ball hold that has to be grabbed with a healthy hand after going through a seriously-sick, small holds sequence with precise foot placements.

Even atheist climbers will be shouting, "OH MY GOD THIS ROUTE IS TASTY!"

Get through this run out crux and get serious! Make a clip high above your last bolt and start battling your way up some of the best rock in Spearfish Canyon. Get sucked into a swath of sick, small holds and super slopers! Scratch and claw your way through several more rowdy sequences and reach the anchors of Faith after a super-righteous fight for your life.

SUPER-FANTASTIC, SEQUENTIAL AND SUSTAINED 5.12c CLIMBING!

Note to self: Once you get on this route expect to keep climbing without stopping. Rest are not plentiful on this one. The climbing is super pumpy, the cruxes get mondo-technical and the grade is ultra-sustained all the way to the finish.

Location

Starts on Executioner and trends right.

Protection

Take a dozen draws plus two more for the closed anchors.

Photos

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harrison t
Black Hills, SD
  5.12
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
  5.12
One of the best 5.12s in the canyon Oct 20, 2014

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