Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Equipped by Nate Renner & Blake Workman. FA: Greg Parker. Rebolted to new and better territory in 2014 by Lee Terveen.
Page Views: 436 total · 8/month
Shared By: BBQ on Sep 7, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

Starts on Executioner's flake and gives you a burly pump to a series of two finger pockets and monos at a 4th bolt on the black face to your right. Don't stray to the left where easier climbing takes you to the blonde, flat top of the flake. Get yourself setup good and dig in. Take down a crux on blank, black rock with sickie-small holds. Make your way up an overhung section to a nice bowling ball hold that has to be grabbed with a healthy hand after going through a seriously-sick, small holds sequence with precise foot placements.

Even atheist climbers will be shouting, "OH MY GOD THIS ROUTE IS TASTY!"

Get through this run out crux and get serious! Make a clip high above your last bolt and start battling your way up some of the best rock in Spearfish Canyon. Get sucked into a swath of sick, small holds and super slopers! Scratch and claw your way through several more rowdy sequences and reach the anchors of Faith after a super-righteous fight for your life.

SUPER-FANTASTIC, SEQUENTIAL AND SUSTAINED 5.12c CLIMBING!

Note to self: Once you get on this route expect to keep climbing without stopping. Rest are not plentiful on this one. The climbing is super pumpy, the cruxes get mondo-technical and the grade is ultra-sustained all the way to the finish.

Location

Starts on Executioner and trends right.

Protection

Take a dozen draws plus two more for the closed anchors.

Photos

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harrison t
Black Hills, SD
  5.12
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
  5.12
One of the best 5.12s in the canyon Oct 20, 2014