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Free Beaks

5.12a/b, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 38 votes
FA: unknown
California > Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > Scheelite Canyo… > Ministry Wall

Description

Climb Twitch or Easy Twitch start to the anchor ledge at about 70'. Clip anchor draw and continue into the dihedral corner that is the start of the old aid route "Beaks of Paradise". Place small cams to a crux about halfway with 2 bolts. These bolts were placed next to the 2 bashies that were removed to make this a free climb. Do a desperate dihedral crux to a stance and place small cams through easier ground to a bolted anchor above an old stump.

Location

to the right of "Rites of Spring"

Protection

2 bolts + small cams to BD .5. doubles .00 and .0

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Patrick O'Donnell
Bishop, CA
  5.12c/d
[Hide Comment] An incredible splitter dihedral that I can't believe hasn't been free climbed before. Took a little cleaning to bring it to conditions but the result is splitter granite dihedral climb for the sending! Go do it! Sep 7, 2014
Katie Lambert
Bishop, CA
[Hide Comment] Just climbed this today - another good one by the POD. Really quality climbing, incredibly thin and techy dihedral. Sep 14, 2014
Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Clean & beautiful. At 6'1" it felt easier than the given grade. I'm hoping the gear list doesn't detour people from jumping on it. the pro was all pretty good. Bring a couple larger Hb brass offsets for the small section after the second bolt. Thanks for your work in putting up this route. Jun 13, 2015
Patrick O'Donnell
Bishop, CA
  5.12c/d
[Hide Comment] Consensus seems to be easier than 12c. So maybe more like 12a or b. May 31, 2016
Alex Shainman
Lakewood, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The corner is short but really cool and a fun diversion from the crimpin nearby. I'd recommend having extra cams in the mid/larger sizes listed above...
Definitely seemed height dependent. Great addition! Sep 13, 2016
Michael Vaill
Yosemite
 
[Hide Comment] I climbed this route by bouldering up the chalked up juggy flake out left of the second bolt. Seems this is how most people are climbing it based on chalk, but I was wondering if the original line stayed true to the corner? Anyone know? Patrick O’Donnell? Jul 9, 2022
Patrick O'Donnell
Bishop, CA
  5.12c/d
[Hide Comment] Original route was an aid line that followed the seam the whole way AFAIK. Where the bolts now reside, there were 2 fixed bashies that I (mostly) removed. Jul 10, 2022