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Via Normale

5.6, Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 4 pitches,  Avg: 2.9 from 7 votes
FA: A. Dimai and A. Girardi, 1911
International > Europe > Italy > Dolomites > Cinque Torri Group > Torre Quarta Alta

Description

The first 2 pitches are identical with the Normal route on Torre Quarta Bassa. A rather wide step-across is needed to reach to wall across the notch from the ring anchor, and steep climbing on good holds follows. Move right initially, and then follow the line of a couple old pitons and cemented rings on up to an archaic cemented in twisted rod anchor. To this point, UIAA Gr. IV, and 5.5 YDS. The fourth land final lead climbs to a good piton at a difficult short corner, described in the Bernari guidebook as a "chimney," and it is for a move or two; UIAA Gr. IV+, YDS 5.6/5.7. stay towards the right skyline and top out to a spacious and grassy summit. Abseil the route to the notch (2 abseils), and a long abseil into the hole between the 2 towers puts one back on terra firma.

Location

The first 2 pitches are congruent with Torre Quarta Bassa, via Normale. The Quarta Alta route begins at the point where the 2 towers touch. A big cemented ring anchor on Torre Quarta bassa is the start.

Protection

Entirely fixed gear, including rappel/belay anchors. A light rack and a handful of quickdraws is useful.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Normale Route is shown in yellow.
[Hide Photo] The Normale Route is shown in yellow.
Rodger, chugging along to the start of Quarta Alta.
[Hide Photo] Rodger, chugging along to the start of Quarta Alta.
Emerging from under the roof on Torre Quarta Bassa. Photo made from one of many possible stopping points on the first pitch.
[Hide Photo] Emerging from under the roof on Torre Quarta Bassa. Photo made from one of many possible stopping points on the first pitch.
The final rappel between Torre Quarta Bassa and Torre Quarta Alta is as memorable as the climbing
[Hide Photo] The final rappel between Torre Quarta Bassa and Torre Quarta Alta is as memorable as the climbing
Summit photo 9/7/2014.
[Hide Photo] Summit photo 9/7/2014.
Finishing the second pitch of Torre Quarta Bassa; the starting point for the Torre Quarta Alta Normale.
[Hide Photo] Finishing the second pitch of Torre Quarta Bassa; the starting point for the Torre Quarta Alta Normale.
Rodger, enjoying the summit and views.
[Hide Photo] Rodger, enjoying the summit and views.
Torre Quarta Alta is the rectangular formationa above and left from Torre Quarta Bassa.
[Hide Photo] Torre Quarta Alta is the rectangular formationa above and left from Torre Quarta Bassa.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT
  5.6
[Hide Comment] The route has one slightly harder section near the start of p.2. It's well protected by a good piton. I rated the moves at 5.6/5.7, or UIAA Gr. IV+. The Bernardi guidebook shows this as a short "chimney," but it's more of a tight right facing corner. Sep 8, 2014
Ryan Nevius
Perchtoldsdorf, AT
  5.6 PG13
[Hide Comment] Can be done in 2 enjoyable pitches with a 70m rope via the direct start below the small roof. Belay at a fixed ring anchor at the notch between the two towers. The well-protected (by a piton) distinct crux comes 10m below the summit and is only a couple of moves. The rest of the route is one or two grades easier. While the climbing is fun, the final rappel between the towers may be even more memorable! Apr 20, 2022