Fun route with neat traversing to the left to keep the grade modest.
Step up on the ramp (could be slick...take care) and sink the fingers into the flake over the roof. Place a bomber cam or two, maybe a nut, then pop the roof to a nice stance. Step left. Float up the easy section of Russian Revolution then again step left to avoid the finish of that route. Milk the arête for some fun and stimulating finish moves which look hard but aren't too sassy.
A long sling on pro at the moves left will nearly eliminate rope drag.
The pin on the upper crack of Russian Revolution could be clipped if need be. Long sling keeps the drag down here too.
There's a bit of a lack of gear on the upper arête prior to the top out so take care and get good gear prior to launch.
Great finish position on the final arête!
Location
This climb is on the Central Slabs; after passing the end of the Lower Wall, go up the talus and Staircase and continue right.
Located to the left of the 12' spike of rock at the base of Recollections of Pacifica.
Locate a small overhang topped with a rectangular flake.
Belay from tree and crack (takes cams) atop route, then, traverse to climber's right to fixed anchor for Wafer Step/Recollections for the git down.
Protection
Trad rack from small cams to a 2 or 3 Camalot (or equivalent) and a set of nuts.
[Hide Photo] Madame Lebois' Troubled Lunge as seen from below.head up the cracks and onto the small arete.
[Hide Photo] The approach to the Central Slabs via the Alcove past the Lower Wall
[Hide Photo] Adam Berliner attains the first arete on the lunge, 2016. If memory serves we set a top rope for a group of ~8 students with two offsets, one at the pin and one to the crack to Adam's above-right h…
[Hide Photo] Jen topping out Madamoiselle LeBois with no trouble or lunge...!
[Hide Comment] I'd leave it, name and rating are correct unlike the other. Fun route, I think the gear is good, even at top you can work a decent cam in a flake I think, but it's mostly easier climbing from there I believe. The block of rock involved in the lunge at start sketches me if I look too hard it, but hopefully it's fine.
Dec 28, 2014
[Hide Comment] very fun climb. Seemed harder than a 6. At points, it looks hard, but, if you move carefully, you will find big holds and great moves. Lots of fun, worth doing. Protects well.
May 27, 2015
[Hide Comment] Best route on the slab IMO. Don't go too high before the leftward traverse - you'll want to be stepping on the lip of the roof (the ease of which feels totally serendipitous). On the OS I got sucked into the upper Russia crack and was forced into some much trickier moves up high. Re-climbing it to do it the right way was well worth the effort.
Oct 26, 2020
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