Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 593 total · 11/month
Shared By: Brendan1 on Sep 5, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details


Begin by boat at an iron jug rail just right of Skull in the Stone 5.12c. Make a few pumpy moves on steep rock and good holds, then continue right up to a large white flake. Shake out on the flake, and climb up a water runnel to a chicken head jug. Use some sort of trickery to make the massive span to the next chicken head, or just huck yourself at the hold and risk a 35 foot belly flop. The route ends at the ledge about 10 feet from the top of the cliff to avoid some disgusting vertical bushwhacking/spider boxing.


The water below is your pro.


Do you think you're some kind of badass for doing a 45' DWS? "Do it without a rope or it doesn't count". Okay tough guy.

Quoting from your other "route":

"Jeez! This is retarded. First off I think the basic ethic of twenty+ years at the lake need to be accounted for and appreciated. You wait until the water is down and do it from the GROUND to the top. Not half way up or in some cases 2/3rds of the way up. People who climb out of a boat and rush to the web to post FA's need to "sac up" and climb the whole route. These are just L.A.M.E. ( Look At ME attempts to spew about themselves. Let's reverse this asinine logic here and say someone gets passed the first 3 bolts of a project and then raps down. Is this a first ascent. No! And neither is this crap of only climbing the top half! ! If this lake had water year round I'd give it to you but that is not the case. Here lately there seems to be a disturbing trend of climbing the generally easier top half of a route at the lake and claiming FA's. And in some even more disturbing accounts people have even been bolting the top half of routes and saying "with plans to visit the bottom half later" in route descriptions, or rating them based on what would happen if you soloed a bolted route and fell off(Stumbling Dice12.R ??????-Fegler?) WTF! The route may be totally awesome (including the bottom half), but lets strive to keep at least the basic standards alive here and not dumb stuff down to the lowest denominator. Now I'm off to climb the last pitch of the Dawn Wall Project to claim an "FA" before Tommy Caldwell does, and then I'll rate it 5.10X because if you solo it and fall, you might get hurt.
Common sense people..........." Sep 6, 2014
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
From your pictures it looks like this climbs skull in the stone but skips the crux since the water is up. I'm going to walk this cliff line with your pictures when the water comes down in the next few weeks and if this is in fact a new route then I will contact you about coming to bolt/lead it. Otherwise it's coming down.

The same goes for all of your other DWS routes.

On another note do you know what R actually stands for in climbing? And why is this route marked as trad if you didn't do it on trad, therefore how do you know how well the protection actually is? Sep 6, 2014
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
This is the second route with this "do it without a rope or it doesn't count" comment. Let's just drop trou and compare dicks and skip the nonsense. If you're a badass, then people will know, and there's no need for this type of personal hyperbole. There are a few badasses that live in the region, and they're all super humble guys and gals. You could learn a thing or two from them. Sep 6, 2014
Wow people. I think people seriously misinterpreted my words. I definitely was not meaning to be pretentious or make myself sound like some tough guy. That was supposed to be a lighthearted suggestion. You can climb the route however you want. Toprope it for all I care. Its climbing. There are no rules, just having fun. In fact, I'll remove the comment just to avoid further confusion. As for ethics, the New has always been a place where multiple ethics were practiced side by side with little dispute. There are rap bolted sport routes, head point style trad routes, and routes put up onsight, free solo. I see no reason why routes can't be put up above the water. The way I look at it, I wouldn't bolt a crack, because it already takes pro, so likewise, I wouldn't bolt a route over the lake if the water is deep enough, because the pro is already there. So I especially don't think there is anything wrong with this ethic, especially since the ascent was done solo, onsight, which, the last time I checked, was never "bad style" or "bad ethics" or whatever you want to call it. So just to be clear...I'm not trying to act all hardcore or something. If I thought I was hardcore, I would have graded it 5.13 or something.

Additionally, the route is marked as trad because mtn project won't allow a route with a YDS grade to be given anything other than "sport" or "trad." The R rating is just taking into account the danger of hitting the water awkwardly falling from a high crux. And yes, this route is different from Skull in the Stone. Skull in the Stone climbs through the low roof to some pockets and a dyno. This route climbs through a low roof to the right and ascends an obvious line of horizontals leading to the even more obvious flake and water groove. Sep 9, 2014