PRINT: Rock Climb In Your Face Space Coyote, Jemez Mountains and Jemez Valley

In Your Face Space Coyote

5.12b, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),

Avg: 2.6 from 12 votes
FA: Jeffrey Hyman and Jason Halladay, September 2014
New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Las Conchas > (E) Love Shack Area

Description

This route is a nice little addition to the crag to create a trifecta of pretty fun 5.12s. The upper section looks beautiful from the trail, but the bottom appears a bit thuggish at first glance. However, a little trickery (or burl it out), to a good rest, and you'll be giggling all the way to the chains. Stay strong and go direct at the top through the amazing huecos.

The route name comes from a classic Simpsons episode wherein Homer eats chile peppers from Guatemala, starts tripping balls, and then Johnny Cash shows up in space coyote form as Homer's spirit guide.

Location

Right of Death Grip, Starts on the right side of the hole across the stream.

Protection

8 bolts to two-bolt anchor with biners

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The slightly overhanging, obtuse dihedral in the middle of the route is a bit more tricky than appears from the ground. November 2014.

Allison cruising the glorious middle part of the climb

Moving into the juicy, steep middle section

Great grips after the bouldery start

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO

5.12b

This one should clean up to be a sought after classic! Only thing that keeps it from being 4 stars is the lack of consistency and a few seeping holds at the bottom (at least with my non-optimized beta).

Edit: Glad to hear that the holds at the start dry out. That handlebar hold towards the top is pretty cool, but it was too thin for me to trust! Sep 5, 2014

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM

5.12b

Good news, the seeping holds at the start were temporary, just lasting a couple weeks after the heavy rains in August. It's all dry at the start now.
The wrap-around handlebar hold at the second-to-last bolt is one of the cooler holds in the Jemez. Sep 6, 2014

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM

5.12b

George Perkins wrote:We found the climbing up to and just past the first bolt hard for the (12b) grade [feel free to use the "suggested grade" function... I know]. Maybe we missed something, but never having climbed it before today, I'm going with the theory that the broken hold mentioned above increased the grade? Jason, Jeffrey, have you gotten back on it? Stick-clipped boulder problem (fun, hard V5?) to cool-featured, fun, but obviously fairly untrafficked 5.10. Belayers should beware of and expect to be dragged into the stream from falls prior to the 1st bolt.

Man, I wish the start wasn't so much harder than the rest of the climbing because the climbing above the first bolt is really fun. I have been back on it since the bigger plate hold broke in Sept. 2014 (nearly three years ago now, wow!) I didn't find it much harder, still about a V3/V4 boulder problem. It took me a long time initially to figure out and do the boulder problem. I eventually found a fantastic left heel/toe cam that made all the difference.

The belaying situation kinda sucks now (2017). There used to be a small island of dirt and a log there that helped immensely. You can see it in this photo. cdn-files.apstatic.com/clim… Now it's probably best do do this in winter when there's ice over the stream. To work out the beta when we first established this, I would stick clip the second bolt then clip the leaders end through the first bolt. This helped keep the rope out of the way and keep the belayer on the little island that used to exist. Jul 17, 2017