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Routes in Mangatepopo Valley

Bomb Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Death Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lic-Pa T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ta-Lo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Colin Abbott, Graeme Dingle & Noel Sissons
Page Views: 204 total · 4/month
Shared By: Cameron Fraser on Sep 4, 2014 with updates from Christopher Zammit
Admins: Cameron Fraser

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Access Issue: Parking at Mangetepopo limited to 4 hours, no overnight Details

Description

The classic climb of the valley. If you climb only one route at Mangatepopo, it really ought to be this one. Start from the platform at very front toe of the buttress. A better alternative to the last pitch may be to finish via one of the routes on the Upper Tier.

Pitch 1
Climb directly up hand and fist cracks to a spike of rock. Then make a delicate move left across the slab into a groove, which can be climbed easily to a large belay ledge.

Pitch 2
Climb leftwards up the easy-angled buttress until you are standing on a ledge beneath a slightly overhanging corner. Climb straight up this corner (crux) to easy ground above and a belay ledge. It is possible to do variations either to the left or the right (easiest) of this corner, if you have difficulties.

Pitch 3
Run it out up the chossy gully to the top. Optional third pitches to the right, 5.7 then 5.10, if you are looking for more of a challenge.

Descent
Can walk off the back for the descent. Hike directly up the ridge then head climbers left to hike down the gully.

Protection

Trad. Last pitch a little run out but on easy ground.

Photos

Christopher Zammit
Chapel Hill, NC
 
Christopher Zammit   Chapel Hill, NC
 
Can walk off the back for the descent. Hike directly up the ridge then head climbers left to hike down the gully. May 13, 2018

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