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Routes in Right End

Andromeda T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Holes Matter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gamma Ray Arete T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gemini T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Illegal Aliens T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
O'Ryan's Belt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quantum Entanglement T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Starboard Tack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Starstruck T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: 2013
Page Views: 199 total, 5/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Sep 4, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

This route follows a strenuous line up and around the right end of the main face. Great climbing above, needs cleanup near the bottom.
A critical pink Tri-Cam placement is the best gear for making the moves around the corner; nothing else we've tried works well in the thin crack above the bolt.
Climb from near the right end of the base up easy slab, protecting in the vegetated crack to the right, to a stance by the right-facing corner beneath an overhang. Clip the bolt and make hard moves up and right, crossing that vital Tri-Cam placement horizontal crack, then swing around onto a tenuous, strenuous stance. A move up eases the burden, and a bit farther a big stance allows good gear for the final overhang move to the anchors.

Location

Right end of the low base of the cliff.

Protection

Bolt Anchors at top.
Standard rack, with an emphasis on small cams - and of course, that all-important pink Tri-Cam.

Photos

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Jay Harrison  
 
The problem was that someone had removed the intermediate quicklinks from the system; people were therefore clipping into carabiners that were lying flat on the wall. During a rappel, the 'biners would torque off the surface, imparting a twist to the rope. If more anchor material disappears, it may be necessary to add your own, or (unfortunately) rap off a tree to prevent tangles...which is why removing said gear is not a good thing. Sep 30, 2014
Blissab  
Led this route at the Southern Adirondack Climber's Festival...good route and good crag.

However, the anchors for the Gamma Ray Arete will twist the rope horribly during the final lower-off. Probably better to rap the final lower-off.

Thanks to all who have cleaned and developed this crag...fun climbing! Sep 28, 2014