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Gama Route

5.9, Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 7 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
International > Asia > Japan > Nagano Prefecture > Ogawayama > Gama Slabs

Description

FROM OGAWAYAMA.COM
Pitch 1. 5.7~
Pick a line up the slab. The first four or five lines from the left (up to and including the line that pulls up a neat white flake) are 5.6 - 5.8. Whichever pitch you choose to take, from the top-left of the slab, follow a path left to the start of the second pitch - a neat slim flake starting from the toe of the main slab.
Pitch 2. 5.9
Layback the flake to the bolt at its end and traverse right along a dike. Smear up a white scoop to gain better holds and a ledge with two old trees and two spanking new chains.
Pitch 3. 5.8
Climb the easy slab behind the belay to a steep corner, passing possible belays on the right and left. Climb the corner, then belay at a tree in a gully.
Pitch 4. --- Scramble right up the gully then left across easy slabs to a wooded slope. This is very easy, but beginners may require a rope. Walk about 20m diagonally left to the base of pitch 5. (Note: Pitch 5 starts up a juggy slab left of a gully and heads to an obvious curving flake in a slab up and left. If you're standing below a scruffy wall heading into treed slabs, and the first runner is a peg, possibly with red tape on it, you're too far up and right.)
Pitch 5. 5.9
Climb the easy slab for 10m to a steep section by a small tree. Pull up onto the next slab using a superb pocket, then continue to the big flake. Pull over this (crux) onto the top slab and continue to a big terrace. It is possible to make a 5.7 detour up the gully and crack to the right and to split the pitch at trees in the gully.
Pitch 6. --- Make a scary step into the bottom of the bottomless gully (yes, I know) behind the belay then head up the gully to a good viewpoint on the ridge. Rope up as required.
Pitch 7. 5.4
Meander up the sleeping slabs to the top - a great spot for a picnic. Rope up as required. Watch you don't drop any gear into the deep cracks.

Location

To descend, ab off down the back (i.e. down the impressive face of the top pitch of Kaze to Tomo ni Sarinu). If you have two ropes, you can get down in one ab, but tie a knot in the rope and head left (facing in). A short scramble leads down to the path below Magga Slab. If you have one rope, ab to the anchor on the lower ledge below the steep face (the second anchor down - this is the top of Pitch 2 of Kaze to Tomo ni Sarinu) and ab again from here. Both abs are almost, but not quite, 25m.

Protection

The bolts have almost all been replaced, but you'll still need a light rack and a lot of slings. The flake on Pitch 5 takes a bomber Friend 4.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2
Japanese topo with translation.
[Hide Photo] Japanese topo with translation.
1st pitch.
[Hide Photo] 1st pitch.