Mountain Project Logo

Routes in SE Face

Devoid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Type: Trad, 370 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Steve Grossman and Fig Fiola, 1981
Page Views: 2,228 total, 57/month
Shared By: Geir on Sep 4, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closed from March 1 to June 30 Details

Description

Devoid is an amazing route that lies within the wild chimneys between Chey Desa Tsay and Rockfellow Dome. It is a tremendously adventurous line with demanding mental cruxes, but the experience of this classic is truly magnificent. The X rating is for pitch 1 - make absolutely sure you are a solid chimney climber as there is no room for error.

The directions below assume you are facing Chey Desa Tsay at the start.

Pitch 1 (5.8 X): From the base, chimney up and right about 90' to a bolt. Clip it and continue up about 40' to a second bolt. The anchor is about 20' higher.

Pitch 2 (5.10 R): This pitch has wide stemming and chimney climbing between Rockfellow and Chey Desa Tsay. On the FA Steve Grossman led a portion of this pitch with foot-shoulder technique!

Traverse directly right 15', then work up about 30' to a crack on the CDT side. Protect, turn around, and make a big committing move on the Rockfellow face. From here climb up and left 40' to two bolts. We belayed here. The bolts are 10' apart so it is necessary to use a self-equalizing anchor.

Pitch 3: (5.10 PG13/R): Move back on to Chey Desa Tsay (jaw-dropping exposure) and up on to an angled ledge. Tricky face climbing leads up to a large ledge. From here continue up and left to a point just below the summit and belay.

Location

The climb starts from the inner passage. Start at its north end. Pass by the chockstone wedged 3' from the bottom of the passageway. Continue about 50' past the chockstone and you will be at the base of the route. Neither the bolts nor the anchor are visible from the base.

Protection

A very good assortment of nuts. A single set of cams to 3.5" with a few extra from .4" to .6".

Photos

Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.10 X
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.10 X
This is one of the most unique, badass, and wild climbs I've ever done. It's definitely not for the faint of heart, but if you think you're up for the mental challenge then quit wasting time and go get on it: you won't be disappointed!
P1: There is a bolt visible from the ground, but this is the second bolt. I made the mistake of aiming for it and nearly climbed past the first bolt, which was just below and about 20' right of me.
P2: There is a bolt visible about 30' right of the belay. This is apparently part of a different route. Anyways, I climbed to it and then worked up and back left to the crack that is mentioned in Geir's route description. The climbing through this section is really wide and included, for me, foot-shoulder chimneying. From the crack I headed directly left (facing Chey Desa Tsay) until I could turn around and reach some plates on the Rockfellow side. There is some loose rock and committing moves here, and falling would not be very fun. I brought a 15' length of webbing for the belay on this pitch.
P3: Easy climbing leads to some bomber nut placements then hard-to-read face/slab climbing up to and through two bolts to the summit. Falling at the first bolt would probably hurt.
As for gear, I only used two finger sized pieces in the crack on P2 and two nuts on P3. There is apparently some placements that I missed on the first pitch, but I'd say that a single set and some nuts will be more than sufficient for the route. Nov 9, 2015