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Routes in Right End

Andromeda T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Holes Matter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gamma Ray Arete T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gemini T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Illegal Aliens T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
O'Ryan's Belt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quantum Entanglement T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Starboard Tack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Starstruck T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: 2013
Page Views: 134 total, 3/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Sep 4, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Difficult crux getting through the bulge. Tape up.
Climb up the bottom slab to an awkward stance below the bulge. Hand to fist jams and a few holds and sidepulls get through the crux. Step up and left to reach a left-facing corner. Climb up it, then move up and right onto the face. Follow the crack/seam as it diminishes, make a couple easy but runout slab moves to reach the top.

Location

This route climbs the slab along a crack to reach the bulging fist/hand crack above. It comes up very close to the right end of the Ledge.

Protection

Standard Adk. Rack. Consider doubling up on .7 to 2".
A #4 C4 and Tri-cams may help.
Unlike the majority of routes here, this route has no fixed anchors or convenient tree at the top. There is an excellent short, vertical 3/4" crack for setting a good gear anchor at the very top of the route; or optionally, to be used as a directional for an anchor off the large oak tree to climber's left.

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