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Routes in Ledge Area

Aquarius T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Asterisk T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cosmic Ray T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sagittarius T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Solar Wind T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Starline T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: 2013 Ben Brooke
Page Views: 62 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Sep 4, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Somewhat contrived - using the wide crack to the right (Aquarius) greatly reduces the difficulty. But commit to only the thin hands crack and the face above its end, and you are stepping into a real challenge.
Climb up the thin hands crack (difficult start, then enjoyable climbing) to its end. Very committing, intricate face moves reach the top. Make a poor choice of line here and the difficulty rises well beyond 5.8; and the last gear is well below your feet.

Location

This is the thin crack which leans slightly leftward, diverging from the wide crack of Aquarius. It does not get to the top of the cliff.

Protection

Standard rack, emphasis on small to medium cams.

Photos

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I found nothing remotely 5.8 about the unprotected (PG? Really?? You could take a 30 footer from that spot) upper face. More like 10a, and I only found the "nice hueco" (ADK Rock descr.) while trending up and R from the Starline bolt after TR'ing that line. Nov 7, 2016