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Routes in Right End

Andromeda T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ben to the Stars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Holes Matter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gamma Ray Arete T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gemini T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Illegal Aliens T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
O'Ryan's Belt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quantum Entanglement T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Starboard Tack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Starstruck T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: 2013 Tom Lane
Page Views: 152 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Sep 4, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

It looks like a straight run through the bulge above the left-facing corner is easy enough. It's not.
Climb the slab up and left to a stance just right of the oak tree. Face holds (small gear in pockets) reach the crack and the base of the left-facing corner. Move up the corner a step or two, find gear, then make a very committing move around right and up. Less difficult, but enjoyable climbing, leads to the top.

Location

This route begins below the left edge of the Ledge; as such, one can forego the start and begin at the Ledge rather than climb the mossy slab below. Look for a short, left-facing corner midway up the cliff, behind an oak tree growing on the Ledge.

Protection

Tri-cams, and a standard rack with emphasis on small to medium gear.
Belay off a large oak tree at the top of the route.

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