Type: Trad, 558 ft (169 m), 4 pitches
FA: David Benton - solo - Sept 2012
Page Views: 1,176 total · 10/month
Shared By: Alex Weber on Sep 4, 2014
Admins: Braden Batsford, John Serjeantson

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Description Suggest change

Originally climbed in 3 pitches, but suggested to climb in 4 to reduce rope drag. 

This route has a reputation for being run-out. All the hardest moves are well protected and a new bolt has alleviated one of the runout sections on P1. However, there are still many runout sections and dubious placements in limestone. Being confident with limestone slab at the grade and placing creative protection will make this a fun climb. 

Requires two ropes (or a tagline) to descend.

Pitch 1: (5.7, 30m): You are aiming for the large spruce on the big ledge. Follow the first few bolts up and right, then head toward the short right facing corner where you can place some small cams. Easy climbing up to the big spruce, belay off the tree.

Pitch 2 (5.10a, 20m): Climb the slab above the tree, aiming for the bolted section, you can get a good nut in a small crack before but there's a decent runout here. Follow the 3 bolts, with the crux at the last one. Pull the move and you'll reach the ledge and the first bolt anchor/rap station.

Pitch 3 (5.9, 55m): Head right to your first bolt. Reach a crack and head up straight, past a tree onto some face climbing. Two more bolts leads to a grassy corner crack that surprisingly takes decent gear placements but will require some gardening with your nut tool. Finish on a ledge and the second belay/rap station.

Pitch 4 (5.9, 55m): Again start out right to your first bolt. From here head up, place some gear, and head right to clip another bolt, until you reach another grassy crack. Place more pro then head up to your last bolt. Continue up easy low angle slab to the end.

Descent: 3 full length/double rope rappels off the fixed anchors. 

Location Suggest change

50m left of Iki Gai, two bolts easily seen to the right of a right facing corner leading to a stunted spruce. 

Protection Suggest change

SR 0.3 to #3, set of nuts. Doubles 0.3 to #1 are helpful. There are a max of 6 bolts per pitch. Lots of long runners/alpine draws. Each belay station has rap rings installed.