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Routes in McGregor West

Tumblelina T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 510 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Deb Thompson, LP?
Page Views: 163 total · 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 3, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a nice, short, low angle route with a few interesting features and some adventure. The route still probably needs a bit of cleaning and gardening if you want it to be crag-like. It is probably the line of least resistance up the south face of this crag.

P1. There are two starts, both are runout until 12-15' up. The left start is easier, perhaps 5.6. The right start may be the crux for the entire route in its 15 feet up a slabby section without pro. Once ~12-15', plug in some pro. Follow the rib to the left of the crack. Chase the crack up as it arcs rightward to a prominent, skinny tree trunk. This is where a run up the crack didn't get it all clean. Bring a nut tool and brush to clean to your liking. Continue upwards. A 5.7-ish section confronts you just before a horizontal crack. Finish on a large ledge, 5.8 PG-13, 120'. You can exit right off the ledge if needed.

P2. Move the belay up ~25' to a tree. Follow what appears to be an easy crack. The footholds get smaller as you ascend this nice section. You continue until you are level with a tree on a ledge. Traverse left to the tree. This is where the #4 Camalot was nice. The challenged tree can be backed up with an orange and a green Alien, 5.7, 230'.

P3. Follow a crack up to the obvious horizontal break. Move left ~25'. Pass a 8-9' steeper bit. Note, the pro here is a yellow Alien at waist height and then a very iffy #0.1 Camalot (2-3 lobes engaged). A taller climber will find this easier. Hop aboard the slab, follow it to another steeper bit with a beached whale like move. Above fight a bush past some loose bits to the top, 5.7 PG-13, 160'.

Scramble off the notch to the north and gain the McGregor Slab left descent.

Location

This catches a rib of sorts just to the left of the big, bushy, broken, less-inviting, right-facing dihedral that splits the face. It starts at the nadir of the rock.

Protection

A rack to a #4 Camalot with extra finger and hand size pieces works. We did it with a 70m rope, although it's certainly not required.

Photos

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