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Routes in Madsen's Buttress

Air Roof T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
La Bamba S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
La Cucaracha T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Master of Arms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Meet me in the corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Viser Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Visor, The T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c A3
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 411 total, 10/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Sep 3, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This gets 1 star in Kramar's book, I think he prefers slabs. This is a great and fun little climb. Seems soft for the Leavenworth grade of 10d. Maybe 10c or 10b. The book also says gear to 1". the first piece is a #3, and you could place a #2 or #3 up higher on the right side of flake.

Location

follow trail towards waterfall, veer left from waterfall, pass a short double finger crack with big flat area, continue uphill, this is on the left, bolted 5.12 to right, Madsen's chimney ( actually an OW) further right.

Protection

mostly medium size cams .4- #3. Good cord on tree( 8/2014) could walk off to SW.

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Probably more of a meat grinder than Meat Grinder... Jun 27, 2017
cord on tree held my rap 4/30/17. i'll try to remember to bring some fresh cord up there next time as it was looking kinda spooky. May 1, 2017
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
A fun, if short, exercise in rattly finger jamming. Sep 18, 2015
Eric8
Maynard, MA
  5.10b/c
Eric8   Maynard, MA
  5.10b/c
Agreed pretty good route. The only thing I remember thinking was can I use both cracks and if so its not 10d... Feb 25, 2015