Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Madsen's Buttress

Air Roof T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
La Bamba S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
La Cucaracha T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Master of Arms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Meet me in the corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Viser Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Visor, The T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c A3
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 517 total · 10/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Sep 3, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This gets 1 star in Kramar's book, I think he prefers slabs. This is a great and fun little climb. Seems soft for the Leavenworth grade of 10d. Maybe 10c or 10b. The book also says gear to 1". the first piece is a #3, and you could place a #2 or #3 up higher on the right side of flake.

Location

follow trail towards waterfall, veer left from waterfall, pass a short double finger crack with big flat area, continue uphill, this is on the left, bolted 5.12 to right, Madsen's chimney ( actually an OW) further right.

Protection

mostly medium size cams .4- #3. Good cord on tree( 8/2014) could walk off to SW.

Photos

- No Photos -
Eric8
Maynard, MA
  5.10b/c
Eric8   Maynard, MA
  5.10b/c
Agreed pretty good route. The only thing I remember thinking was can I use both cracks and if so its not 10d... Feb 25, 2015
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
A fun, if short, exercise in rattly finger jamming. Sep 18, 2015
cord on tree held my rap 4/30/17. i'll try to remember to bring some fresh cord up there next time as it was looking kinda spooky. May 1, 2017
Matthew Tangeman
Bellingham, WA
Matthew Tangeman   Bellingham, WA
Probably more of a meat grinder than Meat Grinder... Jun 27, 2017

More About La Cucaracha

Printer-Friendly