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Routes in Distant Drum

Bear Necessities S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chief Running Bush T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chutes and Daggers S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Congolese Crescendo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Forbidden Coast Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gabonese Grin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hear No Evil T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Me Tarzan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey Sea Foam S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Monkey Shoulder T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
One Degree of Separation S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scapular Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
See No Evil S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
She Jane S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Simeon Smile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Source of de Nile, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Swinging From Limbs T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Swinging on Webs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Touch No Evil T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Zoo Keeper T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, Alpine, 80 ft
FA: A. Mollard & D. Stireman, 8/2014
Page Views: 573 total, 14/month
Shared By: Boissal on Sep 3, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Start to the left of a brushy low angle corner below a smooth sheet of crimson patina. A few long moves to positive edges and a touchy mantle lead to the third bolt and the first crux, a delicate rightward traverse. Don't peel off these awkward moves and you'll be rewarded with a rest below a small broken roof.
You may be tempted to traverse further right to an obvious jug and a stance in the brush gully; refrain from doing so as it sets you up completely backwards for the next crux (which heads left) and may lead to unpleasant falls. The jug itself is "on" but won't help much.

Tackle the roof and establish on the face above, following an offset seam with the occasional edge or crack feature and fighting the growing pump by milking unobvious rests. The climbing gets steeper, thinner and more technical, eventually leading into an intimidating blocky area. The route takes the path of least resistance through this, heading left to an obvious stance where a large cube used to reside. Things may appear a bit hollow in the area but we were ruthless with the cleaning and what's left is not going anywhere.
Take note of the 9th bolt a ways out right and don't get greedy with an early clip: it's easily reachable from the stance, not so much from below while pumped.

Gingerly surmount the last of the blocks and veer right, aiming for the faint dihedral which forms the upper headwall. Take a deep breath and fire the last 30' of slightly overhanging rock, pulling long technical moves on small but positive edges. If the pump catches up with you before you clip the chains expect a long clean ride!

The route got its name from the numerous trips we had to take up and down the poop chute and the massive amounts of choss we tossed off the top before we could even start cleaning the face. As usual in the Jungle, the recipe for a rad new line is a (dumb) vision, lots of sweat and time with the trusty hammer/crowbar/steel brush combo!

Location

The fastest approach is from the top. Follow the directions found on the Distant Drum main page to find the poop chute which deserves the end of the Village Wall and the Planet of the Apes. Make a right (heading South) at the bottom of the chute, round the corner and you'll find the route, easily identifiable by a giant sheet of red patina at the bottom of an orange face (and a large destruction area at the base).

If you have a dog, want to warm up along the way or dislike via ferratas you can park at the Lower Jungle and take a 25-30 minutes stroll depending on the weight of your pack.

Protection

11 bolts to chain anchors. The 9th bolt can be hard to spot, rock quality dictated a placement a bit further right than we'd have liked on the side of a small prow.
Branden Michelkamp
Salt Lake City
  5.12a
Branden Michelkamp   Salt Lake City
  5.12a
I felt this was a pretty stiff route, in your face the whole time. Great Movement, watch for loose blocks on this one I was pulling off a quite a bit when I was on it. Once this gets more traffic I think this will become a classic. Jun 13, 2016
Via Ferratas! Your use of language makes me...happy! Mar 31, 2015