The Nights Watch
Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Nate Brown and Tyler Phillips|
|Page Views:||253 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Nate Brown on Sep 2, 2014|
DescriptionRoute climbs the black streak on the buttress between the Cajun Couloir and the Haas (Hourglass) Couloir.
Tyler and I put this route up in one go and drilled everything on lead. We drilled 20 bolts and left about ten pins fixed on the leads. Of the 20 bolts, 8 were used for anchors. This route is worth repeating.
Pitch 1: first 35 meters are wildly loose and about 5.8. the last 15 meters were the route crux and seemed mid-5.10--bolts and good rock.
Pitch 2: a few fixed pins in the pitch crux protect the first fifteen feet. (a bolt might be a nice addition here). The rest of the 30 meter pitch is about 5.8 and a few bolts help protect the climbing.
Pitch 3: several pins and a few bolts protect the mostly 5.9 climbing.
Pitch 4: some fun slab climbing protected by bolts gets you below the giant boulder. Under and right of this huge obstacle gets you off the fifth class terrain.