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Routes in Rendezvous Mountain North Face

Cajun Buttress Left, Mountaineers Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Husbandry S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Long Night, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nights Watch, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poo-Finger S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shatter Face T M6+ R
Toon-Stand, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
White Walker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Nate Brown and Tyler Phillips
Page Views: 255 total · 6/month
Shared By: Nate Brown on Sep 2, 2014
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Access Issue: Permanently closed during ski season Details

Description

Route climbs the black streak on the buttress between the Cajun Couloir and the Haas (Hourglass) Couloir.

Tyler and I put this route up in one go and drilled everything on lead. We drilled 20 bolts and left about ten pins fixed on the leads. Of the 20 bolts, 8 were used for anchors. This route is worth repeating.

Pitch 1: first 35 meters are wildly loose and about 5.8. the last 15 meters were the route crux and seemed mid-5.10--bolts and good rock.

Pitch 2: a few fixed pins in the pitch crux protect the first fifteen feet. (a bolt might be a nice addition here). The rest of the 30 meter pitch is about 5.8 and a few bolts help protect the climbing.

Pitch 3: several pins and a few bolts protect the mostly 5.9 climbing.

Pitch 4: some fun slab climbing protected by bolts gets you below the giant boulder. Under and right of this huge obstacle gets you off the fifth class terrain.

Protection

Cams to 3 BD and a few nuts and pins should do the trick.

Photos

Don't forget to re fuel on waffles and beer at the top of the tram.

Also most of the big choss was trundled on the FA. The bottom 80 feet of easy climbing might have some shite here and there though. Sep 9, 2014

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