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Routes in 3. The Mid Section

Bruin T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Coloring Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
DIVIDING LINE for MID-SECTION T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Dead Easy T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Face Dances T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fifty Center T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
L' Anniversaire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Littoral Zone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Livin' Easy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pencilneck Geek T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rhino Skin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Rubberneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Scramble to "Launch Ledge" T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
True Colors T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Unknown next to L'Anniversaire T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
building steam with a grain of salt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kurt & Karen Winkler Aug 1984
Page Views: 319 total, 8/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 2, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

See photo of slab posted to Face Dances.

A MUCH nicer climb than at first appearance: FIRST, it's pretty well protected. SECOND, the route doesn't touch the ugly moss at the flake. THIRD, nor does it get involved with the vegetation in the corner (except, perhaps, in moving a bit of it around to get a gear placement.) Pretty close to a 4-star climb now that bolts have replaced the very marginal gear placements at the belay !


P1- Climb up to a right-leaning flake; climb along the flake (gear) until before the moss, then over the flake and up (5.7) the white rock above. Pass over two sloping ledges (possible to belay on gear at the higher of the two) [Var],and then very pleasant climbing on featured white rock, to the base of the right-facing corner. Protect in the corner, but climb 2-3 feet right of the actual corner (5.6-5.7), thus avoiding the vegetation, and belay it its top [2 x 3/8" bolts]. 165+/- ft 5.7


Variation: Establish a gear belay at the suggested 2nd ledge. (medium cams). Step left and climb directly up (on a line about 20-25 ft left of Coloring Book, PHOTO) passing over two flakes (gear at both). Continue directly up the face/Arete 3-5 feet left of the Coloring Book corner. (purple [0.5] Camalot and 1 Bolt). Avoid the Coloring Book belay (if follower should fall at crux, it would be an ugly swing into the corner), but rather continue straight up to a second bolt. Then move left and up to the belay/rap anchor on Face Dances. Rap Face Dances with 2 ropes. 140 ft 5.7+/5,8-


P2- From the belay at the end of the regular P1, the FA went straight up the yellowish streak (gear at small overlap 50 ft up) to the trees at the top of the slab, but most climbers will probably want to climb leftwards and up (5.4, bolt ) to the Face Dances double bolt belay/rap anchor. Here, rap with 2 ropes down Face Dances.

Location

Route is located in the left side of the Mid-Section. From where the climber's path meets the cliff at the junction of the Mid Section & Perfect Wave Slab, walk slightly up, then left 100-125 ft then down on a path to the 'toe' area, scramble easily along the base, and then up to the left 50-75 ft [crossing over the main the watercourse, usually dry] to a gently sloping slabby area of dark rock.
The key feature of Coloring Book is the 40 ft high, right-facing corner about 120 ft up. Some vines usually grow in the bottom of the corner.

Protection

Small to medium nuts/cams for the initial flake, optional 5-6mm cord to tie-off a natural thread, and 0.5-1.0 sized cams for the top corner, save a #2(Gold) or #3(blue) Camalot-sized piece for the exit move from the corner. A double bolt anchor now replaces the very marginal placements at the belay, but is presently not set up as a rap anchor.

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