Sport, 100 ft,
Avg: 3.1 from 7
FA: Mark Stevenson
> New River Gorge
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 4. Third Buttress
PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
This year parking along southbound highway 19 has really increased in numbers. Often, nearly 100 cars are just parked along the side of a busy four lane, 65mph highway. While it's not yet illegal (but surely will be if it continues), here are some guidelines:
- DO NOT park past the sign near the bridge. It indicates something like "no parking to the right," but actually means "no parking past this sign" (thanks DOT). This is to keep access open for emergency 4x4s that may need to descend to gorge for rescues.
-Park completely off the pavement, preferably diagonally, with vehicle rears facing away from the road. I've seen a couple cars actually back out into the highway as they exit the parking. This is stupid and dangerous.
-consider using the large gravel parking lot just off the Underwood Rd. Seriously, it only adds an extra 5 minutes of walking. You came to the Meadow for those closely bolted easy climbs that the NRG lacks, so pay your dues and walk a little, goober. Seriously, you take an extra five minutes to set up your hammock at the crag anyway, it's not a huge deal.
Local climbers and boaters have been getting increasingly irate about bad/excessive parking off of 19. If it keeps as it has been going, the likely outcome will be a simple ban on parking, with no other alternatives. Let's try to self-regulate, m'kay?
Writing in chalk
Please stop putting the dreaded "X", "Bees" or "Snake" on the rock faces. Please be smart and conscious of others.
Stop putting tick marks on the rock unless you are going to brush them off when you are done on the route. This goes against the ethic of the area and in the eyes of the locals is the same as graffiti. Rock climbing is an outdoor sport and guess what lives outdoors? That's right, bees, wasps, snakes, and even bears! We all know they exist, no reason to write it on the walls.
Climb some flaky rock past the 1st bolt to the 2nd (long sling). Clip the chain on the 3rd bolt from a good jug and boulder out the corner to a good horn. Avoid an X-block (good jug just to the right) and move up past a glued-on block, which makes for an amazing jug, to crimps and a dead-point to the good rail above. Traverse left 3 feet to a stance on the corner. Continue straight up the right line of bolts (do not switch the left bolt line as the guidebook directs) to high anchors.
The upper face has 3 more tricky sections with high-heel hooks, a mantle, and possibly a dead-point. Each section climbs fine, but seems perplexing as you encounter it. Luckily there are good stances in between the tricky sections.
Great adventure climbing! Possibly a thicket of spider webs!
Far right side of 3rd Buttress. First route beyond the large roof with Bittersweet and Shaken, Not Stirred. Chain on 3rd bolt.
10 bolts, 2-bolt anchor. Shoulder-length sling on 2nd bolt important for reducing rope drag. Extended draw on 6th or 7th bolt also helps.