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A Farce to be Reckoned With

5.11- PG13, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
FA: Kevin Bein, Paul Piana, Robert Berger, Barbara Devine 8/13/80
S Dakota > Custer SP > Needles Eye Area > Retable Rock

Description

Stunning looking line when viewed from the road. This bold, but safe, lead should be ticked by every hard needler. Follow the hand size flakes, on the E aspect of the spire, to a left leaning fracture with a pin. Take the large horizontal back right to a hanging flake and clip the first bolt. Rest and build up the courage to punch it for the next bolt, 25' up. Hardware was replaced by BHCC a few years ago.

Location

Start on left facing flake on the E face. Single 60m rap.

Protection

Single rack to BD #3 or #4
2 bolts
1 pin
Chain anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Obvious crack to hanging flake
[Hide Photo] Obvious crack to hanging flake