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Routes in North Wall

An Eye For an Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bucky's Paradise (formerly "Unknown far left") S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buddha Bukstein Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Just The Fad V-easy 3
Panacea Roof S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Remedy S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Turn the Other Cheek T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walk The Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 95 ft
FA: Dunbar Carpenter, Gokul Gopal, Doug Hemken
Page Views: 112 total · 3/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Sep 1, 2014
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Despite the ugly looking moss, this line has some really nice moves, and just enough moss has rubbed off to reveal the crucial holds.

Start from either the left or the right, move up to the bottom of the groove - nice rail on the left. Work up into the dihedral. Either slab & mantel, or stem up to bomber hand jams. Shift left onto easy ledges. Head up just right of the pine tree to the steep finger crack. Find the jugs and head straight up to a good ledge.

On lead, we went left here and scrambled around to the summit. On TR, continue straight up: the final headwall is 5.9/5.10-ish, and could use a bolt for protection.

Location

Between "Eye for an Eye" and "Buddha Bukstein"

Protection

Nuts and cams. Doubles in the .75" to 1.5". 30' of webbing if setting a TR after the lead.

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Harder when it's damp! Sep 1, 2014